February 1st, 2015 - Rufaa to Desert Camp (Sudan) - 155 km

The day was great due to a tail wind most of the time.  The ride was fast and hot (bike thermometer read 49.4°C).  The road was in bad shape and due to the wind everything was dusty.  Lots of Coke and water stops. The dry barren desert has given way to green bushes and acacia trees.  The bushes and trees become larger and more prominent the farther south we go.  The towns and villages appear to be exceedingly poor and isolated.  Donkeys are still the vehicle of choice and carry large, heavy loads.

Tonight we are camping under a huge shady tree close to the Nile channel.  We set up our tents and then a stampede of bulls crossed right beside my tent.  Then a flock of goats.

There was one big black bull that turned from the group and was acting aggressive, staring and stomping the ground with his feet...it became obvious that we were under his shady tree and he wasn't happy about it.  I saw the herder pick up some large rocks to keep him under control.  Being the brave person that I am I went for cover of our truck.

January 31st, 2015 - Khartoum to Rufaa, Sudan - 148km

This was the cycling day from hell due to heat, traffic and head wind.  Left Khartoum in a convoy, which went well.  As time went on, the number of cars, trucks, motor bikes, buses, wind and temperature increased dramatically.  The vehicles drove too fast and wherever they chose,  including the shoulders of the road, which kicked up clouds of thick dust. It seemed like a race with cars darting in and out and doing a lot of passing.  You would see  pick-up trucks with a number of business men in the back wearing dark suits, shirts and ties obviously on their way to work.  The stretches of highway were dusty and full of garbage and potholes. The strong (head)wind blew sand like a blizzard blows snow; you were appalled by what you may be breathing.  

The one very nice thing is that the acacia trees are much larger and appear as you see them in books and on TV.  There doesn't appear to be any organized garbage pickup, also there is litter everywhere, mainly plastics.

My thermometer, while on the bike, read a high of 48.3°C (that is getting close to 120°F); I have never experienced this kind of heat.  I roughly counted that I drank at least 5L of fluid.  I had to ride most of it by myself because I didn't have the energy to maintain the paceline; so it was better that way. I arrived in at the end of the day exhausted, filthy, sweaty and happy to be done.  Unfortunately tomorrows ride is even longer (160km) and the temperature about the same.  Our hope is for a tailwind that would make all the difference.

The kids are beautiful, happy and friendly.

January 29th, 2015 - Khartoum, Sudan

In the past few days dehydration, sickness and fatigue are the order of the day. I managed to escape it (for now).  A couple of days ago, my bike thermometer read 46 degrees while I was riding (in the sun, but we were in the sun also). 


This is our locker truck.  I have the locker next to MJ in the photo.

Early yesterday we arrived at lunch on the outskirts of Khartoum. The bike in was fine but my legs are tired.  At an average speed of 25km/hr you will be the last person in.  The days are melting together but if I remember correctly we mainly had a crosswind.  The sights included many herds of camels and goats along the road; many, many dead camels left on the side of the road; an unbelievable amount of garbage on the ground and in the ditches; buses going way too fast; lots of big trucks with black smoke; huts and villages and so on.  The landscape is greener, obviously we are leaving the desert.

We had a convoy into Khartoum, it went well but always stressful.  I glanced up few times to see total chaos in the streets filled with people, donkeys, motorbikes...

Kendy and I are sharing a room at the Grand Villa on the same grounds as the camping.  It feels like luxury, with a porcelain toilet, hot water, internet and air conditioning.  We washed our clothes in the sink and hooked up to internet before venturing out in the way to hot sun.

(Above): Hotel 25m pool in Khartoum. It was lovely.

(Below): Egg-shaped building in Khartoum

Best Sight of the Day:  (wish I could take photos)  In the hotel restaurant, it felt like the United Nations with all the different dresses.  There was a family with the men in robes and scarves and the women in burkas and scarves but with their faces exposed. The  women all wore makeup and some of them it was quite dramatic, they wear a very thick black wedged eyebrow... it looks solid and like it is pasted on and made me want to stare.  Some wear a white makeup to make them look whiter and most wear a bright red lipstick just outlining their lips. There was sheikh with his body guard; the sheikh was very impressive with his long brilliant white starched robe and flowing head piece with a black band, he had a small vertical strip of a beard and very handsome - I did speak to him later and found out that he is from Qatar.  There was an Indian couple, he with the long cotton pants under a long robe and her with the baggy cotton pants that are tight at the ankle and with a large colourful scarf on backwards (solid part in the front and open at the back); African men in suits and us in our camp wear... faded, wrinkled cotton t-shirts, baggy shorts and dirty sandals (at least they didn't see us before we had our showers).

January 22nd to 27th, 2015 - Wadi Halfa to Nile Camps to Dongola to Dead Camel Camp to Desert Camp - Approx. 600 km with two rest days - Passed the 2,000 km mark

(To me) Sudan equals hot, tan-coloured desert at least until now.  Yesterday, while riding my bike thermometer was reading 44.6 degrees.  It felt better to be riding because you would get a breeze (even though a hot breeze) than to be standing still.  There are few features in this desert, the odd pyramid-shaped dune or incompetent bedrock and some mountains very far off in the distance.  There are dead camel carcasses all over the place; for some reason they don't remove or bury them.  I think they dry out and remain there practically for ever.

The Sudanese people are very honest, helpful and friendly.  The men wear white tunics with maybe a vest over top.  The women are seldom seen but when seen are generally covered head to toe and in dark colours.  Donkeys are the mode of transport in the rural areas.

Yesterday, we stopped in a village market to have a cold coke.  I felt like I was in an Indiana Jones movie.  Donkey carts loaded with supplies, men in tunics walking around doing business, sometimes holding hands, laughing and greeting.  The butchers had fly covered goats hanging in the hot sun, waiting to carve off sections.  Other doors had piles of beans, lentils, tomatoes, and all shades of spices. The place was filthy.  Garbage was strewn, parts of  animal carcasses, flies everywhere, and general filth.  There was one thing missing, women; I was the only woman in sight.  I assume the dinner time topic in many homes that evening would be the indecently dressed, disgusting American (so they thought) white woman on a bike with the nerve to come into the market place with all the men.

Its 4am and I was just outside.  The sky is incredible; it looks thick with stars.  One of the riders studied astronomy and gave us a tour of the night sky.  The crescent moon lies horizontally rather than vertically, like at home.

The biking days since our rest day in Dongola have been very long (+140km each day) and hot but without much grade.  Today will be the most climbing +500m, it will be noticed especially since it promises to be hot again and I'm getting tired.  

I still love the trip and all the sights, I'm getting quite use to no toilets or showers in the desert.  I will stay in a hotel (I hope) in Khartoum (we will arrive the day after tomorrow).

Best Sight: A parade of camels being ushered in a single line through the desert.  A couple of camels stopped to watch us pass by on our bikes. 

January 21st, 2015 - Sudan - 80 km

We said goodbye to the Egyptian Cycling Team that accompanied us the length of Egypt, as well as, Birgit who was leaving for NZ.  Sad to see these people leave.

After an early morning ferry ride across a lake, we had a stunning 40km bike to the border crossing.  Our entry into Sudan was a long wait with many forms to fill, all requesting the same information but quite uneventful.  You could feel the heat of the sun and the dryness of the land. 

Two of the TDA trucks are at the front loaded down with supplies and staff bikes.

I'm writing this at 5am to the catchy tune of the call to prayer...some are more annoying than others.  I hope I learn to tune it out.  

January 20th, 2015 - Abu Simbel Rest Day

This is our last full day in Egypt.  It proves to be a true rest day in that once we visited the temple, there wasn't much to do except hang out at the camp.  We visited a bakery and ordered a roasted chicken dinner to be ready for 5pm and headed back to the camp via the market.  The weather has warmed immensely, making it a nice day to sit on the veranda and sip a cold drink. Then an afternoon of organizing belongings, bike maintenance, chatting, laundry, etc.  Bed time is a little later, maybe 7 - 8 as compared to 6pm when it was dreadfully cold.

At the temple with our Dutch contingent posing for a photo.

January 19th, 2015 - Desert Camp to Abu Simbel - 151 km

Another lovely day in the desert.  Strong tail winds to the lunch truck, then predominantly head winds.  Took a break at a coke stop. 

We are in Abu Simbel, tenting behind a hotel.  Cold showers but showers none the less.   There appeared to be a celebration with drums and singing in the field behind the hotel. 

Along the way, the unending sea of sand gave way to these rock outcroppings.