Spent a night at a lodge resting. We were all a bit worried because one
of the riders was jailed for not leaving the road while the
Presidential motorcade went by. He spent 3 nights in jail before his
court hearing and release. He got a fine (equivalent to about $200) but
the max penalty was 2 years in jail. They don't feed the prisoners but
instead family has to bring them food.
Beautiful scenery - green fields, tea bush gardens, banana plants, mountains and Lake Malawi (has crocodiles).
This was a fantastic day! In the morning I came upon a couple of our
riders who were being entertained by a group of girls, they were
singing, clapping and dancing. The dancing was a lot of fun, one of the
American women called it 'twerking'. It was a fast and extreme pelvic
thrust while in a semi squat. Later I came across this truckload of
people singing with a call and response. This truck was a taxi picking
up people as it went along. I sat behind it while in town to listen.
About an hour later it passed me again and they were still singing
their hearts out; it was beautiful and the lead woman had an amazing
Malawi was nearing the end of its rainy season
and we didn't escape dry. We rode through some cold torrential rains
and lots of low lying cloud. It was very beautiful in places.
We saw many villages along the way. Many of the houses were round, made
of mud with thatched roofs. Usually goats and cattle around. Cell
towers are plentiful, as there are no land lines.
Green tea bushes, banana plants and mountains in the background were
some of the best views in the country. We were on our way to Chitimba
Beach for a rest day. Chitimba Beach is a resort on Lake Malawi.
The chalets were very tiny, rustic, no bathrooms (only an ablution
bldg), no glass in the windows (just screens and shutters) but on a
magnificent white sandy beach. It had a very comfortable bar/
restaurant on the beach which was manned by several armed guards. Malawi
is known for its corruption; the owner of the resort was robbed and
shot (not fatally) in his bedroom six weeks before. His guards were
tied up and his wife badly beaten and forced to open the safe for the
business. They took the owner to a nearby clinic for treatment but
when the doctor saw that it was a gun wound refused to treat him before
he did a police report. The problem was he was convinced that it was
the police that attacked him.
Homes and fish drying racks on Lake Malawi. They had racks and racks of tiny fish drying on the racks.
Beautiful Lake Malawi and the mountain in the
background that we had to climb after our 'rest day' - I was happy that I
didn't know our upcoming route ahead of time.
A pig roasting on a spit over a charcoal fire. Our cook (April, with
her dreadlocks wrapped in a towel) and our assistant tour leader, Tallis, watch in the background while a local tends to the pig. A craft market
was set up outside the gates to the resort where all kinds of carvings,
jewellery, and wall hanging were sold for double the price. I bought a
game called Bao (wooden board with 12 cups and 36 marbles for each
player...my game had coffee beans instead of marbles) which locals play
for money...I would have to go back to work if I played...they are very
Our riders relaxing in the bar/lounge area at Chitimba Beach.
Sunset at Chitimba Beach promises a wicked thunder, lightening, wind and
rain storm. The wind picked up and everything was covered up while you
heard planters being overturned and shutter slamming...then the violent
lightening, thunder and lightning began and continued for a couple of
Next morning while climbing the mountain we came across a family of monkeys playing on the road and in the nearby trees.
View looking over the side of the mountain where the monkeys were playing.
The predominant religion is Catholic. The 'God Knows Butchery' was
across the street from the 'If God Says Yes, Why would You Say No'
Kids checking out our bikes.
Kids appear from every direction to sit and watch us eat our lunches.
If there are not too many kids, the truck driver will give them the
leftovers but if there are too many kids he won't because fights will
quickly breakout over the food.
There are very, very few cars, few bikes and even fewer donkeys. The
highway is lined with people walking carrying loads of firewood, food